Paul in Red Square in front of the Kremlin.

Without a word to each other, we walked all the way towards St Basil’s Cathedral, until there was nothing left to do but go inside!

As we walked in the first thing I noticed was that there was no communal space. No big worship area like I’m used to seeing in ordinary cathedrals. Instead there were several small altars. The largest one had a group of four men singing some sort of mournful Russian song in perfect harmony. I wasn’t sure if they were busking or just singing for the heck of it, but I listened through the iron gate for ages.

Back in Red Square we popped into Gum – an enormous department store. During the Soviet era, Stalin turned Gum into offices, but now it’s like an enormous shopping mall. I can’t decide whether I prefer it that way.

The next goal of the day was to see ice sculptures. It failed miserably (see the Life Lesson), but on the bright side we did get to walk along the river bank (for miles and miles!) while it was getting darker.

Why are there so many smoke stacks in Moscow?

We sort of got to see ice sculptures. Or at least, we got within zoom photo distance. It’s funny. I didn’t realise what the sculpture was of until I processed the photos and saw these two one after the other!

Cold and tired, we wandered for what felt miles, until accidentally stumbling across the largest shopping mall I think I’ve ever seen. This monument to capitalism feels at odds with former communist Russia, so it was kinda surreal.